Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc above the sea at Cap d'Antibes, Côte d'Azur

The Côte d'Azur

Nice or Cap d'Antibes, the art villages, and the coast to Monaco

The Côte d'Azur

The Côte d'Azur is the stretch of coast from Cannes to Monaco, and the best way to do it is from one base: swimming in the morning, a long lunch, and an afternoon in the hill villages or the art museums that the painters left behind.

The choice is Nice, the real city with the old town and the airport on its doorstep, or Cap d'Antibes for the resort stay among pine gardens. For most trips I pick the Cape.

Researched profile: this page is written from my planning research and partner knowledge rather than a stay of my own here, and when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

The Côte d'Azur, or French Riviera, runs along the Mediterranean in the far south-east of France, from Cannes in the west through Antibes and Nice to Monaco and the Italian border. Nice is the city and the airport, the second busiest in France, with flights from Paris in about an hour and a half and seasonal nonstops from the United States. Above the coast, villages like Saint-Paul-de-Vence, Vence and Èze sit on the hills, and the art that drew Matisse, Picasso and Chagall here is still the region's second reason to come.

What You Do Here

The rhythm is simple and it is the point: swim, lunch for a long time, then one thing in the afternoon. The art thread is the best of those things. In Antibes, the Musée Picasso fills the Château Grimaldi above the ramparts, where Picasso worked in 1946. Inland, the walled village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence has the Fondation Maeght just outside it, and next door in Vence is the chapel that Matisse designed and decorated. In Nice, the old town and the Cours Saleya market make the morning, and the Matisse and Chagall museums sit up on the hill at Cimiez.

The coast east of Nice is the drive everyone should do once: Villefranche on its bay, Èze on its cliff, and Monaco at the end, an easy day with lunch in Monte-Carlo. On Cap d'Antibes itself, the coastal path over the rocks is a good two-hour walk before the heat.

Nice or Cap d'Antibes

Nice is the working base: a real city with an old town, markets, restaurants that stay open late and the airport fifteen minutes away. It suits a shorter stay or travelers who want streets around them. Cap d'Antibes, halfway between Cannes and Nice, is the resort stay: quiet, green and built around the sea, with everything on this page within about an hour's drive. For a week on the coast I would pick the Cape and day-trip Nice, not the other way round.

Best Time to Go

June and September are the best months: the sea is warm, the hotels are open and the roads still move. Late May is lovely but plan around the Cannes Film Festival, when rooms near Cannes fill early, and the Monaco Grand Prix a couple of weeks later. July and August are honest high summer: hot, crowded, slow on every road and priced accordingly. Early October still works, but many seasonal hotels close by the middle of the month, and from November to March the coast is mild, quiet and largely shuttered.

For June and September, book by the start of the year.

Month by month

  • January: Mixed.
  • February: Mixed.
  • March: Good.
  • April: Good.
  • May: Very good.
  • June: Excellent.
  • July: Good.
  • August: Mixed.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Very good.
  • November: Mixed.
  • December: Mixed.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Fly into Nice, from Paris or via a European hub, or take the TGV from Paris, which reaches Nice in under six hours and stops at Antibes and Cannes on some services. Cap d'Antibes is about 25 minutes from Nice airport by car when traffic is light. Four or five nights is the right length, and a private driver is the easiest way to do the hill villages and Monaco.

Where to Stay

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is my Riviera choice: nine hectares of pine gardens at the tip of Cap d'Antibes, running down to a seawater pool cut into the rocks. It is the grand summer hotel of this coast, built for days of swimming and slow lunches. It is strictly seasonal, open roughly from late April to mid-October, and very expensive in peak weeks, so I confirm the season dates before building a trip around it. For Nice itself or a private villa, I choose to suit each trip.

Pairs with: Paris first (see Paris and the Riviera in one trip), Provence to the west, the Italian coast at Portofino to the east, and the Mediterranean for the other summer coasts.

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Culture & Sights

  • Saint-Paul-de-Vence: the walled hill village above the coast, with the Fondation Maeght just outside.
  • The Musée Picasso, Antibes: in the Château Grimaldi on the ramparts, where Picasso worked in 1946.
  • The Matisse Chapel, Vence: the Chapelle du Rosaire, designed and decorated by Matisse.
  • Old Nice and the Cours Saleya: the morning market and the lanes of the old town.
  • Èze: the village on its cliff high above the sea between Nice and Monaco.
  • Monaco: Monte-Carlo, the Prince's Palace and the Oceanographic Museum on the rock.

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