Switzerland

Lakes, high valleys and good trains

Switzerland

Switzerland is a small country with big lakes, glaciated peaks, car-free mountain villages and some of the best trains in the world.

We plan it around two or three bases, usually one lake and one or two mountain valleys, traveling by rail. It works in winter for skiing and in summer for hiking and Alpine wildlife.

Where to Go

  • The Engadin and St. Moritz: a high, sunny valley in Graubünden with lakes, larch forests and the Swiss National Park, founded in 1914, a short drive away at Zernez.
  • Zermatt and the Matterhorn: a car-free village at the head of the Mattertal, with year-round skiing on the glacier and superb high-level walks in summer.
  • The Bernese Oberland: Interlaken, Wengen, Mürren and the Jungfrau region, the classic Alpine scenery of waterfalls, cliffs and cog railways.
  • Lake Geneva: Geneva, Lausanne and Montreux, with the terraced Lavaux vineyards, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along the north shore.
  • Zurich and Lucerne: easy first or last nights, with lake swimming in summer and the old town in Lucerne.

What to Do

In summer, walk. The trail networks are very well marked, and lifts let you start high and stay high. In the Swiss National Park you are required to stay on the marked paths, and early mornings are the best time to find ibex, chamois and red deer. In winter, ski St. Moritz, Zermatt or the Jungfrau region. In any season, ride the Glacier Express between St. Moritz and Zermatt, which takes roughly eight hours and crosses more than 291 bridges and 91 tunnels.

Best Time to Go

Mid-June to mid-September is best for hiking and wildlife, when the high passes are open and marmots are out. December to March is ski season. Spring and late autumn are quiet, but many mountain hotels close between seasons, so check dates first. Our guide to Europe in the shoulder season covers which hotels are open when.

Getting Around and How Long to Stay

Fly into Zurich or Geneva. From there, trains reach almost everywhere, and the scenic lines are part of the trip. A car helps only in a few side valleys. We suggest eight to ten nights for a first visit: a lake, then two mountain bases, with a scenic train between them.

Where to Stay

In St. Moritz we like Badrutt's Palace, the town's grand hotel since 1896 and still owned by the Badrutt family. It opens for a winter and a summer season and closes in between. For Zermatt, the Bernese Oberland and Lake Geneva, we can advise on the right hotel for your dates and group.

Pairing

Switzerland pairs well with northern Italy, since St. Moritz connects to Lake Como by road over the Maloja Pass. See Italy's lakes and coasts for where we would stay. It also links easily with the Alps in Austria.

Species in the Area

Mammals

  • Alpine ibex
  • Chamois
  • Red deer
  • Alpine marmot
  • Red fox

Birdlife

  • Golden eagle
  • Bearded vulture
  • Alpine chough
  • Spotted nutcracker
  • Rock ptarmigan

Alpine Ibex

By the 19th century, hunting had wiped out the Alpine ibex almost everywhere in the Alps. The last animals survived in the Italian king's hunting reserve at Gran Paradiso, now a national park. In the early 20th century, young ibex were smuggled from there into Switzerland, and the Wildpark Peter und Paul in St. Gallen was the first to breed them. On 8 May 1911, the first ibex were released into the wild in the Weisstannental. Today about 16,000 live in the Swiss Alps. Because every animal descends from so few, the species still carries low genetic diversity.

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