The basilica of Santa Maria della Salute beside the canal in Venice

Venice & the Veneto

Sleep in Venice itself, then the islands, Verona and the road to the Dolomites

Venice & the Veneto

Venice is the one city in Italy where the hotel decision is also the trip decision. Stay on the islands and you get the city at dawn and after the day-trippers leave, which is when it is Venice; stay on the mainland to save money and you get the queue for the water bus and a city that is always full.

Two to three nights in Venice is the right dose, with a day for the lagoon islands. The Veneto around it — Verona, the Palladian villas, the Prosecco hills — pairs naturally, and the Dolomites are three hours north.

Researched profile: this page is written from our planning research and partner knowledge; the Wild Atlas stay on record here is The St. Regis Venice.

What and Where It Is

Venice is a city of around 120 islands in a lagoon at the top of the Adriatic, joined by bridges and a causeway to the mainland at Mestre. The Veneto is the region around it: Verona to the west, Padua and Vicenza with their Palladian architecture in between, the Prosecco hills of Valdobbiadene to the north, and beyond them the Dolomites. The mainland mistake is to book a hotel in Mestre or at the airport because it is cheaper, then spend the trip commuting into a city that is at its best in the hours you will not be there.

What You Do Here

Venice rewards the early morning and the late evening above everything else. Walk the Piazza San Marco before eight and it belongs to you; by eleven it belongs to the day-trippers. The Basilica, the Doge's Palace and the Accademia are the headline interiors, and the rest of the city is best treated as one long walk: across the Rialto, through the quieter lanes of Cannaregio and Castello, and over the Accademia bridge to Dorsoduro.

The two neighborhoods people choose between are San Marco and Dorsoduro. San Marco is the grand address: the Grand Canal palazzo hotels, the piazza a few minutes away, and the crowds that go with it in the middle of the day. Dorsoduro, across the water, is quieter and more residential, with the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, the Salute church and the long Zattere waterfront, and it is where many repeat visitors end up.

Give the lagoon a day: Murano for the glass furnaces, Burano for the painted houses and lace, and Torcello, nearly empty, for the oldest cathedral in the lagoon and the mosaics inside it. A private boat makes this one easy day rather than three water-bus connections. On the mainland, Verona is just over an hour by train and makes a civilised stop between Venice and Milan or Lake Garda; the opera season in the Roman arena runs through the summer.

Best Time to Go

Spring and autumn are Venice. April, May, September and October bring light that the painters came for, comfortable walking weather and a city that is busy but breathing. June is warm and bright and the Biennale is on in odd-numbered years. July and August are hot, humid and the most crowded weeks of the year, when the lagoon smells like a lagoon. Carnival, in the two weeks before Lent in February, is a spectacle and a scramble for rooms. Winter is quiet and atmospheric; fog and the occasional acqua alta high tide are part of the season, and most of the city shrugs them off.

For April–June and September–October, book hotels by January; canal-view rooms in the Grand Canal palazzi go first. Our shoulder-season guide sets Venice alongside the rest of Europe.

Month by month

  • January: Mixed.
  • February: Good.
  • March: Good.
  • April: Very good.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Very good.
  • July: Mixed.
  • August: Mixed.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Very good.
  • November: Mixed.
  • December: Good.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Marco Polo airport has seasonal nonstop flights from the US East Coast and year-round connections through the European hubs; the arrival that matters is the water taxi from the airport dock straight to your hotel, about 30 minutes across the lagoon and the best first look at the city you can buy. By train, Venice is about two hours from Milan and two from Florence, into Santa Lucia station on the Grand Canal. Two nights is the minimum, three is right if you want the lagoon day. Pack light: your bags cross bridges.

Where to Stay

The St. Regis Venice occupies a row of historic palazzi on the Grand Canal in San Marco, a few minutes from the piazza, with a rare waterside garden and views across to the Salute; it is the central, polished base. For Dorsoduro, for a palazzo with period rooms rather than contemporary ones, or for the Veneto's villa hotels and Verona, we place clients property by property.

Pairs with: the Dolomites three hours north, Milan and Lake Como by train, and the Italy guide for the whole country.

Plan this trip with us. $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your trip.

Culture & Sights

  • Piazza San Marco — the Basilica's golden mosaics, the Campanile and the Doge's Palace; go before eight in the morning.
  • The Grand Canal — ride the length of it once on the slow water bus, from the station to San Marco, for the palazzo facades.
  • The Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection — Venetian painting from Bellini to Tintoretto, and the modern collection in a palazzo on the canal in Dorsoduro.
  • Santa Maria della Salute — the plague church of 1631 at the mouth of the Grand Canal, the view from most San Marco terraces.
  • Murano, Burano and Torcello — glass, painted houses and the lagoon's oldest cathedral, best done in one day by private boat.
  • Verona — the Roman arena and its summer opera season, an hour and a quarter by train.
  • The Prosecco hills — the UNESCO-listed vineyards of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, an hour north of the city.

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