The hill village of Gordes above green hills in the Luberon, Provence

Provence

Avignon or the countryside, hill villages, Roman Arles and the Camargue

Provence

Provence is the slow middle of a France trip: morning markets, hill villages, Roman towns, a wine tasting in the afternoon and dinner outside. It suits a single base and a week of short drives better than a tour.

The first decision is where to sleep. Avignon puts you inside a walled city with restaurants on the doorstep; a countryside house in the Luberon or the Alpilles gives you the Provence of the postcards, with a driver doing the work.

Researched profile: this page is written from my planning research and partner knowledge rather than a stay of my own here, and when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

Provence is the south-east of France between the Rhône and the Alps, and for a trip the part that matters is the triangle of Avignon, the Luberon and the Alpilles, with Arles and the Camargue to the south-west. Avignon is the hub: its old center, inside the medieval walls, has the Palais des Papes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the TGV station brings Paris within three hours. The Luberon to the east is the country of perched villages such as Gordes, Roussillon and Ménerbes; the Alpilles to the south are a small limestone range with Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and Les Baux.

What You Do Here

The markets set the rhythm of the day. Every village has its weekly market, and the Sunday market at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, with its antiques dealers along the river, is the one to plan around. Late mornings and afternoons go to the villages, each best seen early or late, before and after the day visitors, and to wine: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, just north of Avignon, is the famous name, and the tastings there are serious.

Arles is the Roman half of Provence, with an amphitheater still in use and the streets Van Gogh painted. South of it, the Camargue is the wild half-day most itineraries miss: the Rhône delta of salt marsh and lagoons, where greater flamingos, white horses and black bulls are easy to see from the roads and the reserve paths. In late June and July the lavender is in bloom on the plateaus, which is beautiful and also the busiest weeks of the year.

The Base Question

Avignon suits travelers who want a town around them: walk to dinner, see the Palais des Papes without a drive, and take day trips out. A countryside stay in the Luberon or the Alpilles suits a slower trip with a pool, quiet evenings and a driver for the villages. For a week I usually suggest the countryside, with one evening in Avignon. In Provence I choose hotels and private villas to suit each trip.

Best Time to Go

May, June and September are the best months: warm, green or golden, and calm. Late June and July bring the lavender and the Avignon theater festival, with the crowds and prices that come with both. August is hot and full. October is harvest time and still pleasant, and from November to March the countryside is quiet, cooler and partly closed, with the mistral wind blowing hardest in winter and spring.

For May, June and September, book houses and small hotels well ahead.

Month by month

  • January: Mixed.
  • February: Mixed.
  • March: Good.
  • April: Very good.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Excellent.
  • July: Good.
  • August: Mixed.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Very good.
  • November: Mixed.
  • December: Mixed.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Take the TGV from Paris to Avignon, under three hours, or fly into Marseille, about an hour's drive away. A private driver is the easiest way to get around; the villages are close together but parking in them in summer is hard work. Four to six nights is the right length, often paired with the Riviera for a south-of-France week.

Where to Stay

In Provence I choose hotels and private villas to suit each trip: a town hotel inside Avignon's walls for a shorter stay, or a country house in the Luberon or the Alpilles for a week. Tell me what you have in mind and I will suggest the right fit.

Pairs with: Paris by TGV, the Côte d'Azur a couple of hours east, and the France guide for the whole country.

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Culture & Sights

  • The Palais des Papes: the Gothic papal palace in Avignon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • The Luberon villages: Gordes, Roussillon and Ménerbes, perched above the valley.
  • Roman Arles: an amphitheater still in use and the streets Van Gogh painted.
  • Châteauneuf-du-Pape: the great wine village just north of Avignon.
  • L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: the Sunday market and antiques dealers along the river.

Wildlife note: in the Camargue, greater flamingos, white horses and black bulls are easy to see in the wetlands.

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