Croatia has one of Europe's most beautiful coastlines, with walled towns, more than a thousand islands and very clear water. Inland, Plitvice Lakes and the Velebit mountains have bears and wolves.
We plan it around the coast, mixing a city or two with island time by boat.
Spend time on the water: a private boat day from Split or Dubrovnik is the best way to see the islands and swim from quiet coves. Walk Dubrovnik's walls early, before the day crowds. Eat well in Istria, especially in autumn. On Cres, visit the rescue centre for griffon vultures in the village of Beli. Plitvice is best done early in the morning, and Krka National Park near Šibenik is an easier stop between Split and Zadar.
May, June and September are the sweet spot: warm water, long days and fewer people than in July and August, when Dubrovnik and Hvar are very busy. Many coastal hotels are seasonal and close over the winter. See our guide to Europe in the shoulder season for how we think about the edges of the season.
Fly into Dubrovnik or Split, or into Zagreb for Plitvice and the north. Along the coast, combine catamarans, private boats and a driver. We suggest seven to ten nights, for example three in Dubrovnik, three or four on Hvar and one or two in Split, or a week split between Istria and Kvarner.
We do not yet have Croatian hotels on our list, and we can advise on the right fit. In Dubrovnik, Hotel Excelsior has views back to the old town walls. On Hvar, Maslina Resort near Stari Grad is a Relais & Châteaux member that opened in 2020.
Croatia pairs well with Slovenia and Venice to the north, or with a few days in Vienna before you head to the coast.
Mammals
Marine life
Birdlife
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