Croatia

Islands, old towns and clear water

Croatia

Croatia has one of Europe's most beautiful coastlines, with walled towns, more than a thousand islands and very clear water. Inland, Plitvice Lakes and the Velebit mountains have bears and wolves.

We plan it around the coast, mixing a city or two with island time by boat.

Where to Go

  • Dubrovnik: the walled old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with the Elaphiti Islands and Mljet National Park within reach by boat.
  • Split and Hvar: Diocletian's Palace in Split, then the islands of Hvar, Brač and Vis, linked by fast catamarans.
  • Istria: Rovinj and the hill towns of the interior, known for olive oil, wine and truffles.
  • Kvarner and Cres: quieter islands in the north, where griffon vultures nest on the sea cliffs.
  • Plitvice Lakes: a national park of terraced lakes and waterfalls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

What to Do

Spend time on the water: a private boat day from Split or Dubrovnik is the best way to see the islands and swim from quiet coves. Walk Dubrovnik's walls early, before the day crowds. Eat well in Istria, especially in autumn. On Cres, visit the rescue centre for griffon vultures in the village of Beli. Plitvice is best done early in the morning, and Krka National Park near Šibenik is an easier stop between Split and Zadar.

Best Time to Go

May, June and September are the sweet spot: warm water, long days and fewer people than in July and August, when Dubrovnik and Hvar are very busy. Many coastal hotels are seasonal and close over the winter. See our guide to Europe in the shoulder season for how we think about the edges of the season.

Getting Around and How Long to Stay

Fly into Dubrovnik or Split, or into Zagreb for Plitvice and the north. Along the coast, combine catamarans, private boats and a driver. We suggest seven to ten nights, for example three in Dubrovnik, three or four on Hvar and one or two in Split, or a week split between Istria and Kvarner.

Where to Stay

We do not yet have Croatian hotels on our list, and we can advise on the right fit. In Dubrovnik, Hotel Excelsior has views back to the old town walls. On Hvar, Maslina Resort near Stari Grad is a Relais & Châteaux member that opened in 2020.

Pairing

Croatia pairs well with Slovenia and Venice to the north, or with a few days in Vienna before you head to the coast.

Species in the Area

Mammals

  • Brown bear (Plitvice and Velebit, rarely seen)
  • Grey wolf (rarely seen)
  • Eurasian lynx (very rarely seen)

Marine life

  • Common bottlenose dolphin
  • Loggerhead turtle (occasional)

Birdlife

  • Griffon vulture (Kvarner islands)
  • European shag
  • Yellow-legged gull
  • European bee-eater
  • Blue rock thrush

Griffon Vulture

Croatia's last griffon vultures breed on the Kvarner islands of Cres, Krk, Prvić and Plavnik, and on nearby Mount Učka. Unusually, they nest on sea cliffs, sometimes only about 10 m above the water. In summer, young birds on their first flights can fall into the sea, especially if boats disturb them, and drown unless someone pulls them out. Rescued birds are cared for at the centre in Beli on Cres before release. Boaters are asked to stay at least 80 m from the cliffs and keep to about 5 knots. The colony has grown from about 60 pairs in the 1990s to a record 152 pairs in 2024.

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