Greece

Where to Go

• Athens: the Acropolis, the Acropolis Museum and a good food scene, and the natural start for most trips.
• The Peloponnese: Epidaurus, Mycenae and Nafplio, with Porto Heli as a base for boat trips to Hydra and Spetses.
• The Cyclades: Santorini's caldera, plus quieter islands that are easy to reach by ferry.
• The Northern Sporades: Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos, where the National Marine Park of Alonissos protects Mediterranean monk seals.
• Zakynthos: in the Ionian Sea, the largest loggerhead turtle nesting ground in the Mediterranean.

What to Do

See the Acropolis early or late in the day. Drive the Argolid for Epidaurus and Mycenae, and spend a day on the water around Hydra and Spetses. In Santorini, sail the caldera and visit the wineries. In the Sporades, take a boat into the marine park, where dolphins are often seen and monk seals are seen occasionally. On Zakynthos, follow the rules on the nesting beaches, which are closed to visitors at night in the nesting season.

Best Time to Go

May, June, September and early October are best: warm sea, long days and fewer people than in July and August, when the heat and the crowds peak. Many island hotels are seasonal and close from November to April. Our guide to Europe in the shoulder season lists opening dates for the Greek hotels we use.

Getting Around and How Long to Stay

Fly into Athens. Use a driver on the mainland, and ferries, short flights or a private boat for the islands. Allow for weather on sea crossings. We suggest ten to twelve nights: two or three in Athens, then four or five in the Peloponnese and four or five on one island group.

Where to Stay

On the Peloponnese coast, Amanzoe sits on a hill above Porto Heli, and every pavilion has its own pool. It is about two and a half hours by car from Athens airport. In Santorini we like Canaves Oia Suites, cut into the caldera cliff in Oia, with private plunge pools facing the sunset. For Athens and the quieter islands, we can advise on the right hotel.

Pairing

Greece pairs well with the Dalmatian coast in Croatia, or with the Amalfi Coast and Rome. See Italy's lakes and coasts for where we would stay.