Paris rooftops and tree-lined avenues with the Eiffel Tower at sunset

Paris

Neighborhoods, one great museum a day, and the opening leg of most France trips

Paris

Paris is where most of my France trips begin, and it works best when you treat it as a set of neighborhoods rather than a list of monuments. Three or four nights gives you one great museum each morning, the gardens and the walks in between, and dinners worth planning the day around.

The decision that shapes the stay is where you sleep. The Faubourg Saint-Honoré and the golden triangle are grand and quiet at night; the Marais and Saint-Germain put you in the streets where Paris actually lives.

Researched profile: this page is written from my planning research and partner knowledge rather than a stay of my own here, and when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

Paris is France's capital and its main international gateway: Charles de Gaulle has nonstop flights from most large US cities, and the city sits at the center of the fast-train network, so Provence, the Riviera and the Alps are all a train ride away, with London on the Eurostar in a little over two hours. The Seine splits the city into the Right Bank, with the Louvre, the Tuileries, the Marais and the grand avenues, and the Left Bank, with Saint-Germain, the Latin Quarter, the Musée d'Orsay and the Luxembourg Gardens. Almost everything a first or second visit needs sits within a walk of the river.

What You Do Here

I plan Paris around one big museum a day, done in the morning and done selectively. The Louvre is too large to see; pick a few rooms and leave. The Musée d'Orsay, across the river in an old railway station, is the easier and for many people the better visit, with the Impressionists on its upper floor. Note the closing days: the Louvre shuts on Tuesdays and the Orsay on Mondays.

The afternoons are for walking. The Marais has the Place des Vosges, small museums and the best browsing in the city; Saint-Germain has the cafés, bookshops and the Luxembourg Gardens; the Tuileries and the Palais-Royal gardens are the quiet middle of the Right Bank. These walks are the counterweight to monument-hopping, and they are what most people remember. Evenings are for dinner, and Paris rewards booking the important ones before you fly.

Where to Base Yourself

The Faubourg Saint-Honoré and the golden triangle around the avenue Montaigne are the grand-hotel quarter: elegant, central and calm at night, a short walk from the Tuileries and the Champs-Élysées. The Marais is livelier, older and full of character, with more small hotels than palaces. Saint-Germain on the Left Bank is the classic choice for walking, cafés and bookshops. All three work; the right one depends on whether you want quiet evenings or a neighborhood on your doorstep.

Best Time to Go

Paris is good all year, which is why it anchors trips in every season. Spring and autumn are my favorites: April to June for long evenings and gardens in flower, September and October for warm days and the city back from its holidays. July is busy but lively. In August many Parisians leave and some smaller restaurants and shops close for part of the month. Winter is quiet, grey and atmospheric, with the museums at their emptiest and December lit up for the holidays.

For May, June, September and October, book the hotel early, as the best rooms go first.

Month by month

  • January: Good.
  • February: Good.
  • March: Very good.
  • April: Excellent.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Excellent.
  • July: Very good.
  • August: Good.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Excellent.
  • November: Very good.
  • December: Very good.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Fly nonstop into Charles de Gaulle; the drive into the center takes about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic. Three or four nights is the right opening leg for a France trip, and a first visit can easily take more. Inside the city you walk, take the Métro or use a driver; you do not want a car here. When you head south, the TGV from Gare de Lyon reaches Avignon in under three hours, and Nice is a short flight away.

Where to Stay

Le Bristol Paris is my Paris choice: a palace hotel on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, wrapped around a large garden courtyard, with a rooftop pool that helps in summer and restaurants that hold four Michelin stars between them. It is formal and traditional rather than design-led, and its quarter is quieter at night than the Left Bank or the Marais, so plan some dinners across the river. For the Marais or Saint-Germain, I place clients in smaller hotels to suit each trip.

Pairs with: Provence by TGV, the Côte d'Azur by a short flight (see Paris and the Riviera in one trip), London by Eurostar, and the France guide for the whole country.

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Culture & Sights

  • The Louvre: the world's most visited museum; plan a few rooms rather than all of it, and avoid Tuesdays, when it is closed.
  • The Musée d'Orsay: the Impressionists in a former railway station on the Left Bank; closed on Mondays.
  • The Marais: the Place des Vosges, small museums and the city's best browsing.
  • Saint-Germain and the Luxembourg Gardens: cafés, bookshops and the Left Bank's favorite park.
  • The Tuileries and the Palais-Royal: the formal gardens at the quiet heart of the Right Bank.
  • The Seine at dusk: the quays and bridges between the Louvre and Notre-Dame, best on foot.

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