Green Alpe di Siusi meadows below Dolomite peaks, South Tyrol

The Dolomites

Two seasons, skiing and hiking, in South Tyrol's pale mountains

The Dolomites

The Dolomites are the pale limestone mountains of north-east Italy, UNESCO-listed for their scenery and run on two seasons: skiing from December to early April on the Dolomiti Superski circuit, and hiking from mid-June to late September when the mountain huts are open. The culture is South Tyrolean, German-speaking as much as Italian, and the food and the hotels reflect it.

Which valley you choose decides which version of the mountains you get, which is why our Dolomites shortlist is organised by trip type. This page is the overview.

Researched profile: this page is written from our planning research and partner knowledge rather than a Wild Atlas stay — when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

The Dolomites rise between Bolzano and the Austrian border, across South Tyrol (Alto Adige), Trentino and the Belluno province of the Veneto. The valleys that matter for a stay are Alta Badia, the gastronomic valley at the heart of the Superski circuit; the Alpe di Siusi, Europe's largest high-alpine meadow, above the Val Gardena; the Plose above Brixen; and the Merano side to the west, lower, softer and spa-minded. Cortina d'Ampezzo, to the east in the Veneto, is the Italian-speaking resort town. Venice and Innsbruck are the usual airports, each about two and a half to three and a half hours away.

What You Do Here

In winter, it is the skiing: the Dolomiti Superski pass links about 1,200 kilometers of pistes across twelve areas, and the Sellaronda, the loop around the Sella massif, is the day every skier wants to do. In summer, the lifts carry walkers to the high meadows and the rifugi, the mountain huts that serve lunch at 2,000 meters; the trails range from meadow strolls on the Alpe di Siusi to via ferrata routes on the rock faces. In both seasons the hotels are the other half of the trip: family-run South Tyrolean lodges with serious spas and serious kitchens (Alta Badia has several Michelin stars within a short drive), and a culture of long dinners after long days.

Best Time to Go

Both seasons are peak. For skiing, mid-December to early April, with Christmas and February the weeks that book a year ahead and January and March the quieter, better-value ones. For hiking, mid-June to late September, when the rifugi are open and the meadows are at their best; July and August are the busiest, September is the connoisseur's month with clear air and autumn colour starting. The shoulder months are the trap: in April and May the lifts are closed and the trails still under snow, and from late October to the start of December most of the hotels shut between seasons.

For Christmas, February and August, book by the previous December; for September hiking, by spring.

Month by month

  • January: Excellent.
  • February: Excellent.
  • March: Very good.
  • April: Mixed.
  • May: Mixed.
  • June: Very good.
  • July: Excellent.
  • August: Very good.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Good.
  • November: Not recommended.
  • December: Very good.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Fly into Venice or Milan and drive or transfer two and a half to three and a half hours; Innsbruck, across the Austrian border, is closest for the northern valleys. Four to five nights is the right length for one valley, a week if you want two. A car is useful in summer for the passes; in winter the hotel shuttles and the lifts do the moving.

Where to Stay

The five lodges we would book, by trip type, are on our Dolomites hotels shortlist: COMO Alpina Dolomites and ADLER Lodge ALPE on the Alpe di Siusi, FORESTIS above Brixen, Aman Rosa Alpina in Alta Badia, and Hotel Chalet Mirabell above Merano. Read the shortlist for the book-it-if and skip-it-if on each.

Pairs with: Venice three hours south (mountains first, then the water), Lake Como for lake-and-mountain, and the Italy guide.

Plan this trip with us. $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your trip.

Culture & Sights

  • The Sellaronda — the ski circuit around the Sella massif, linking four valleys in a day.
  • Alpe di Siusi — Europe's largest high-alpine meadow, for gentle skiing and summer walking.
  • Alta Badia — the food valley: rifugi lunches, Michelin tables and the Superski heart.
  • Tre Cime di Lavaredo — the three peaks and the loop walk around them, from Misurina.
  • Lago di Braies — the emerald lake below the Croda del Becco; go at dawn.
  • Brixen and Merano — the South Tyrolean towns at the mountains' edge, with their markets and spas.

Ready to plan your trip?

Every itinerary begins with a 20-minute planning call. From there, a $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your booked trip and non-refundable if you don’t book. I brief the property before you arrive — that's what the fee funds.

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