Passalacqua, Moltrasio, Lake Como, Italy

Lake Como

Villas, gardens and boat days between Cernobbio, Bellagio and Varenna

Lake Como

Lake Como is the Italian lake: an hour from Milan, lined with villas and gardens, with mountains rising straight from the water and a handful of hotels that are destinations in themselves. Three nights is the minimum to feel the lake rather than photograph it.

Where you stay decides the trip, which is why our Lake Como shortlist is a page of its own. This page is the overview: where the lake is, what you do on it, and when to come.

Researched profile: this page is written from our planning research and partner knowledge rather than a Wild Atlas stay — when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

Lake Como is the deep, Y-shaped lake north of Milan, about an hour from Malpensa airport by car. The city of Como sits at the bottom of the western arm, with Cernobbio and Moltrasio just above it on the western shore; the mid-lake triangle of Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio is where the two arms meet and where the famous villas and gardens cluster; Tremezzo, opposite Bellagio, gets the sunset. The eastern shore is quieter and more residential.

What You Do Here

The lake is best from the water. A private boat for the day to Bellagio and the villa gardens of the central lake (Villa del Balbianello, Villa Carlotta, Villa Melzi) is the day to build around; the public ferries do the same route more slowly and more cheaply. The rest is the hotel: a lakeside terrace, a garden, a swim, and dinner in Cernobbio or Bellagio. Como town has a cathedral and a funicular up to Brunate for the view; Milan is close enough for a day, though few people leave the lake once they have arrived.

Best Time to Go

May and September are the months we would choose: the gardens in flower in spring, the water warm from summer in autumn, and the crowds at the edges rather than the center of their season. June is bright and busy; July and August are spectacular and packed in equal measure, with the mid-lake towns at their most crowded. The grand hotels mostly close from late autumn to Easter, so winter is for Milan and the mountains, not the lake. Our shoulder-season guide covers the hotel opening dates.

For May–June and September, book by the previous autumn; the lake's small villa hotels fill first.

Month by month

  • January: Not recommended.
  • February: Not recommended.
  • March: Mixed.
  • April: Good.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Excellent.
  • July: Very good.
  • August: Good.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Very good.
  • November: Mixed.
  • December: Mixed.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Fly into Milan Malpensa and take a private transfer straight to the lake, about an hour; the regional train from Milan to Como takes about 40 minutes but is awkward with bags. Three nights is the minimum, four to five if you want a boat day, a garden day and a day of doing nothing on purpose. You do not need a car: boats and drivers beat parking on Como.

Where to Stay

The five properties we would actually book, each for a different kind of trip, are on our Lake Como hotels shortlist: Passalacqua, Villa d'Este, Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Mandarin Oriental Lago di Como and the private Villa Peduzzi. Read the shortlist for the book-it-if and skip-it-if on each.

Pairs with: Milan as the gateway, Portofino for the classic northern Italy week, the Dolomites for lake-and-mountain, and the Italy guide.

Plan this trip with us. $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your trip.

Culture & Sights

  • Villa del Balbianello — the villa and gardens on the Lenno headland, by boat.
  • Villa Carlotta — botanical gardens and the museum at Tremezzo.
  • Bellagio — the town at the point of the mid-lake triangle, with the gardens of Villa Melzi along the shore.
  • Varenna — the quieter village across the water, with Villa Monastero's lakeside garden.
  • Como's Duomo and the Brunate funicular — the cathedral at the foot of the lake and the view from above it.
  • Cernobbio — the village beside Villa d'Este, the easiest base for Milan logistics.

Ready to plan your trip?

Every itinerary begins with a 20-minute planning call. From there, a $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your booked trip and non-refundable if you don’t book. I brief the property before you arrive — that's what the fee funds.

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