The Plaza de España and its canal in Seville, Spain

Andalucía: Seville, Granada and Córdoba

The classic circuit: the Alcázar, the Alhambra and the Mezquita, in the right order

Andalucía: Seville, Granada and Córdoba

Andalucía is the Spain most people picture: Moorish palaces, orange trees, white streets and flamenco. Seville, Córdoba and Granada make one classic circuit, about a week by train, and it is the center of most Spain trips I plan.

Two things decide whether it works. The Alhambra runs on timed tickets that sell out, so its date fixes the rest of the route. And the heat: this is a spring and autumn trip, not a July one.

Researched profile: this page is written from my planning research and partner knowledge rather than a stay of my own here, and when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

Andalucía is Spain's southern region, and its three great cities sit in a line across it. Seville, the largest, is on the Guadalquivir river in the west, with the cathedral, the Giralda tower and the Real Alcázar. Córdoba is upriver, under an hour from Seville by AVE, with the Mezquita, the great mosque that has a cathedral built inside it. Granada is to the east, below the Sierra Nevada, with the Alhambra on its hill above the old Moorish quarter of the Albaicín.

What You Do Here

In Seville, the Real Alcázar is the palace to see slowly, with its tiled courtyards and long gardens, and the cathedral and the Giralda are next door. The Barrio Santa Cruz is for wandering, and an evening of flamenco is part of the city, best in a small venue rather than a dinner show. Córdoba is the quieter stop: the Mezquita, the old Jewish quarter, and the flowered patios, which open to visitors in a festival every May.

Granada is the Alhambra, and timed tickets are the whole game. The Nasrid Palaces are entered at a fixed time printed on the ticket, tickets are released months ahead, and the good slots for spring and autumn go fast, so I book the Alhambra first and build the route around it. The Generalife gardens and the Alcazaba fortress come with it. The evening view of the Alhambra from the Albaicín, across the valley, is the other thing not to miss.

The Route and How Long to Stay

The circuit works in either direction. I usually run it Seville, Córdoba, Granada: three nights in Seville, one in Córdoba, and two in Granada, which is about a week. Córdoba also works as a day stop on the train between the other two if time is short. From Granada the Costa del Sol is about two hours by road, which makes Marbella the natural ending.

Best Time to Go

March to May and late September to November are the best months: warm days, cool evenings, and the orange blossom in spring. Seville's Holy Week and its April Fair are spectacular and also the most crowded and expensive weeks of the year, so I plan around them unless they are the point of the trip. July and August are very hot inland, often over 40°C in Seville and Córdoba. Winter is mild in Seville, colder in Granada, with snow on the Sierra Nevada behind the Alhambra.

For spring and autumn, book the Alhambra as soon as your dates are set.

Month by month

  • January: Good.
  • February: Good.
  • March: Very good.
  • April: Excellent.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Good.
  • July: Mixed.
  • August: Mixed.
  • September: Very good.
  • October: Excellent.
  • November: Very good.
  • December: Good.

Getting There

Take the AVE from Madrid to Seville or Córdoba, about two and a half hours and under two hours respectively, or fly into Seville or Málaga. Between the three cities the train is the easy way; a private driver is better for the white villages and the countryside.

Where to Stay

In Seville, Córdoba and Granada I choose hotels to suit each trip: a palace hotel in Seville, something small and central in Córdoba, and a room with an Alhambra view in Granada. Tell me what you have in mind and I will suggest the right fit.

Pairs with: Madrid by AVE, Marbella and the Costa del Sol for the coast at the end, and the Spain guide for the whole country.

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Culture & Sights

  • The Alhambra: the Nasrid palaces and gardens above Granada; the palace entry time is fixed on the ticket.
  • The Real Alcázar, Seville: tiled courtyards and long gardens in the royal palace.
  • Seville Cathedral and the Giralda: the great Gothic cathedral and its former minaret.
  • The Mezquita, Córdoba: the great mosque, with a cathedral built inside it.
  • The Albaicín: Granada's old Moorish quarter, with the classic view across to the Alhambra.
  • Flamenco: best in a small venue in Seville rather than a dinner show.

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