Le Sirenuse, Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Amalfi Coast

Positano, Ravello or Amalfi: the base you choose is the trip you get

Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast is thirty miles of cliff road between Sorrento and Salerno, with towns stacked into the ravines and the sea below. It is the Italy of the postcards, and in the right month, in the right town, it earns every one of them.

The decision that matters is the base. Positano is the scene: the famous view, the beach clubs, the stairs, the crowds. Ravello, 350 meters up, is the quiet: gardens, the view down over the coast, and the concerts. Amalfi itself is the working town in the middle. Pick one, stay three or four nights, and do the rest by boat.

Researched profile: this page is written from our planning research and partner knowledge rather than a Wild Atlas stay — when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

The Amalfi Coast is the southern shore of the Sorrentine peninsula, south of Naples, from Positano in the west through Praiano, Amalfi and Ravello to Vietri sul Mare near Salerno. The whole coast is UNESCO-listed, the road along it is one of the most famous drives in the world and one of the slowest, and the island of Capri sits off the western tip, forty minutes away by boat. Naples airport is the gateway, about an hour and ten minutes by car to Positano outside the summer traffic and considerably more inside it.

What You Do Here

The base-choice verdict first. Positano is for people who want to be inside the famous picture: the pastel houses tumbling to the beach, the boutiques, the beach clubs, the evening buzz. It is also steep, built on stairs, and crowded from June to September; anyone with limited mobility should think twice. Ravello is for people who want to look at the picture from above: a hill town of gardens (Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone), a cathedral square, a summer concert festival, and quiet nights. Amalfi is the historic maritime republic in the middle, convenient and a little less polished; Praiano is the local's alternative to Positano, with the sunset the others do not get.

Whichever base you choose, the coast is best seen from the water. A private boat for the day to Capri, with a swim stop in the grottoes and lunch on the island, is the day everyone remembers; a shorter run along the coast to Amalfi and the Furore fjord fills another. On land, the Path of the Gods above Positano is the great walk, done early. Pompeii and Herculaneum are on the way to or from Naples and worth the stop with a guide.

Driving versus driver, honestly: the coast road is narrow, twisting and in summer jammed with buses and scooters, and parking in Positano is scarce and expensive. We book a driver for the transfers and a boat for the days, and we would not put a rental car on this road for anyone who does not actively enjoy that kind of driving.

Best Time to Go

This is a seasonal coast. Most of the hotels, including the best ones, open around Easter and close in late October or early November, and in the winter months the towns are largely shut. May, June and September are the months we would choose: warm sea, open everything, and crowds that are manageable. July is hot and full; August is hotter, fuller, and priced at its peak, and the road is at its worst. Late April and October are lovely and quieter, with a cooler sea and some early closures. Easter week fills early.

For May–June and September, book hotels by the previous autumn; the handful of top properties in Positano and Ravello sell out a season ahead. Our lakes and coasts guide covers how the coast pairs with Rome and the north.

Month by month

  • January: Not recommended.
  • February: Not recommended.
  • March: Mixed.
  • April: Good.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Excellent.
  • July: Good.
  • August: Mixed.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Very good.
  • November: Mixed.
  • December: Not recommended.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Fly into Naples (seasonal nonstops from the US East Coast, or via Rome), or take the fast train from Rome to Naples in about an hour and ten minutes, then a private car to the coast. In summer, a boat transfer from Naples or Sorrento beats the road. Three nights is the minimum; four lets you have the Capri day and a lazy one. Pack for stairs and for the sea, not for the car.

Where to Stay

Le Sirenuse is the Sersale family's hotel in the heart of Positano, opened in 1951 in their own villa and still run by the family, looking across the town to the sea; it is the choice if you want to be in Positano itself, and it books out far ahead for summer. For Ravello, Praiano and Amalfi, we place clients property by property, matching the base to the trip.

Pairs with: Rome as the bookend, Puglia across the peninsula for a southern two-centre trip, Sicily by short flight, and the Italy guide.

Plan this trip with us. $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your trip.

Culture & Sights

  • Positano — the pastel town stacked above its beach, the boutiques and the beach clubs; steep and built on stairs.
  • Ravello — Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone's gardens 350 meters above the sea, and the summer concert festival.
  • Amalfi — the cathedral of Sant'Andrea on its staircase, and the paper mills of the old maritime republic.
  • Capri — forty minutes by boat: the Faraglioni rocks, the grottoes and lunch on the island.
  • The Path of the Gods — the high walk from Bomerano to Nocelle above Positano; start early.
  • Pompeii and Herculaneum — the Roman cities under Vesuvius, on the road from Naples; go with a guide.
  • Furore and the coast by boat — the fjord, the grottoes and the view of the towns from the water.

Ready to plan your trip?

Every itinerary begins with a 20-minute planning call. From there, a $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your booked trip and non-refundable if you don’t book. I brief the property before you arrive — that's what the fee funds.

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