Minos Beach Art Hotel, Agios Nikolaos, Crete, Greece

Crete

Knossos, Mirabello Bay, and the east-or-west base decision

Crete

Crete is Greece's largest island, big enough to be its own trip: the Minoan palace at Knossos, mountains and gorges, and a long coast with calm bays. It also has the longest season of the Greek islands.

The decision that matters is east or west. For a week, pick one end: Mirabello Bay in the east for calm water and an easy pace, or Chania in the west for the old harbor town and the walking.

Researched profile: this page is written from my planning research and partner knowledge rather than a stay of my own here, and when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

Crete lies at the southern edge of the Aegean, a long island with mountains down its middle. Heraklion, the capital, is in the center of the north coast, with Knossos just outside it. To the east are Agios Nikolaos and Elounda on Mirabello Bay; to the west, Chania and its Venetian harbor, about two and a half hours by road from Heraklion. That distance is why the base choice matters.

What You Do Here

Knossos, the great Minoan palace, is the headline site, best at opening time with a guide. The Heraklion Archaeological Museum holds the Minoan finds, and I pair the two in one morning. From the east, take a boat to Spinalonga, the Venetian fortress island off Elounda, walk the lanes of Agios Nikolaos, and drive up to the Lasithi Plateau. From the west, walk the old town and harbor of Chania, and in season, hike the Samaria Gorge, a long day down to the south coast.

East or West

East, around Agios Nikolaos and Elounda, is the resort coast: calm, sheltered water, the easiest swimming on the island and a gentle pace, with Knossos about an hour away. It suits couples and families with young children. West, around Chania, is the town and the mountains: a real harbor town with restaurants and lanes, beaches further out, and the gorges. It suits people who want to walk and explore. For one week I pick one; for ten days or more, both, with the drive in the middle.

Best Time to Go

May, June, September and October are the best months: warm sea and comfortable sightseeing. Crete's season runs longer than the smaller islands, and October is often still warm enough to swim. July and August are hot and busy at Knossos. Many resort hotels are seasonal, so I check dates before planning a trip at either end of the year.

Month by month

  • January: Mixed.
  • February: Mixed.
  • March: Good.
  • April: Very good.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Excellent.
  • July: Good.
  • August: Mixed.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Excellent.
  • November: Mixed.
  • December: Mixed.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Fly from Athens to Heraklion or Chania in about fifty minutes, or take the overnight ferry from Piraeus. In summer, fast boats link Heraklion with Santorini. Five nights is the minimum for one end of the island, a week is better.

Where to Stay

Minos Beach Art Hotel is my base in the east: whitewashed bungalows and villas in gardens along Mirabello Bay at the edge of Agios Nikolaos, with modern sculpture in the grounds and shallow water for swimming. It is a mid-sized resort rather than a hideaway, about fifty minutes from Heraklion airport, and it is seasonal. In Chania and the west I choose to suit each trip.

Pairs with: Athens by air, Santorini and the Cyclades by fast boat in summer, and the Greece guide for the whole country.

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Culture & Sights

  • Knossos: the Minoan palace outside Heraklion; go at opening time with a guide.
  • The Heraklion Archaeological Museum: the great collection of Minoan art.
  • Spinalonga: the Venetian fortress island off Elounda, by boat.
  • Chania: the Venetian harbor and old town in the west.
  • The Samaria Gorge: a long day's walk to the south coast, open in the warmer months.
  • The Lasithi Plateau: the high farmland above Mirabello Bay.

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