The Acropolis above the rooftops of Athens at sunset, Greece

Athens

The Acropolis at the right hour, the museum below it, and a city worth two nights

Athens

Athens is where nearly every Greece trip begins, and too many people treat it as a stop between the airport and the ferry. Give it two nights and it pays you back: the Acropolis and its museum, the old streets of the Plaka below them, and one of the best food cities in the Mediterranean.

Timing is the whole game. The Acropolis is a different place at opening time than at noon in July, so I build the first morning around it.

Researched profile: this page is written from my planning research and partner knowledge rather than a stay of my own here, and when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

Athens is the Greek capital, on the plain of Attica about forty minutes by car from the international airport. The part a visitor needs is compact: the Acropolis on its rock, the Acropolis Museum at its foot, the Plaka and Anafiotika on the slopes below, the Ancient Agora to the north-west, and Syntagma Square, with the Parliament and the National Garden, a short walk away. Piraeus, the port for the islands, is half an hour away by car or metro.

What You Do Here

The Acropolis comes first, and the hour matters more than anything else. Entry is by timed ticket, and I book the first slot of the morning or the last of the afternoon: the light is better, the marble is cooler and the crowds from the cruise ships are not yet there or have already gone. Midday in summer, on the open rock with no shade, is the version to avoid. A private guide makes the Parthenon, the Erechtheion and the Propylaia make sense in an hour and a half.

The Acropolis Museum is the other half of the visit. It sits at the foot of the rock with glass floors over the excavated streets beneath it, and the top-floor gallery lays out the Parthenon frieze facing the temple itself through the windows. I put it right after the Acropolis, or on its own the next morning. The Ancient Agora, with the Temple of Hephaestus, and the National Archaeological Museum are the next two if you have the appetite.

Food is the second pillar. The city eats late and well: tavernas in the Plaka and Koukaki, the central market on Athinas Street in the morning, and a rooftop drink with the Acropolis lit up after dark. For an afternoon out of town, the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion is about an hour and a half down the coast, best at sunset.

How Long to Stay

Two nights is the right length for a first visit: one full day for the Acropolis, the museum and the old town, and a second morning for whatever you missed. Athens also works as the last night before a flight home, which takes the risk out of an island ferry the day you fly.

Best Time to Go

Athens works all year, which is not true of the islands. April, May, September and October are the best months, warm enough for evenings outside and cool enough to walk. July and August are hot, often very hot, and the Acropolis can close in the middle of the day in a heatwave, which makes early and late tickets even more important. Winter is mild and quiet, with the museums at their best.

Month by month

  • January: Good.
  • February: Good.
  • March: Very good.
  • April: Excellent.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Very good.
  • July: Mixed.
  • August: Mixed.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Excellent.
  • November: Very good.
  • December: Good.

Getting There

Fly into Athens, from the United States nonstop in season or via a European hub. From Athens, the Peloponnese is a drive, the islands are a ferry from Piraeus, Rafina or Lavrio or a short flight, and Crete is about fifty minutes by air.

Where to Stay

Hotel Grande Bretagne is my Athens base: the grand hotel on Syntagma Square since 1874, with a rooftop restaurant and pool looking across to the Acropolis, and the Plaka, the National Garden and the museum all on foot. Syntagma is busy and is sometimes the site of demonstrations, and the hotel's spa is closed for renovation, with the rooftop pool still open. For a smaller address in Koukaki or Kolonaki, I choose to suit each trip.

Pairs with: the Peloponnese by car, the Cyclades by ferry or short flight, Crete by air, and the Greece guide for the whole country.

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Culture & Sights

  • The Acropolis: the Parthenon, the Erechtheion and the Propylaia; book the first or last entry slot.
  • The Acropolis Museum: glass floors over the excavations and the Parthenon gallery facing the temple.
  • The Ancient Agora: the old marketplace below the Acropolis, with the Temple of Hephaestus.
  • The National Archaeological Museum: the great collection of Greek art, from the Bronze Age on.
  • The Plaka and Anafiotika: the old streets on the slopes below the rock, best in the early evening.
  • Cape Sounion: the Temple of Poseidon above the sea, about an hour and a half away, at sunset.

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