Historic buildings and rooftops of Bologna, Emilia-Romagna

Emilia-Romagna & Bologna

Italy's food engine room, where eating is the itinerary

Emilia-Romagna & Bologna

Emilia-Romagna is the region that fed Italy its reputation: Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar from Modena, tortellini and tagliatelle al ragù from Bologna. It is also the region most visitors drive through on the fast train between Florence and Venice without stopping, which is why it still feels like Italy for Italians.

The trip is simple: base in Bologna for three nights, eat, and day-trip to Parma and Modena with a guide who knows the producers. If someone in the party cares about Ferrari, Maranello is twenty minutes from Modena and the day is made.

Researched profile: this page is written from our planning research and partner knowledge rather than a Wild Atlas stay — when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

Emilia-Romagna runs across the top of the Italian peninsula from the Apennines to the Adriatic, along the line of the old Roman road, the Via Emilia, that strings its cities together: Piacenza, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, then on toward Ravenna and the coast. Bologna is the capital and the hub, about 35 minutes from Florence and an hour from Milan by fast train; Parma and Modena are each a short hop west. The land between the cities is the flat, fertile Po plain, and it is where most of Italy's famous protected foods are made.

What You Do Here

Bologna is a city built for walking under cover: nearly 40 kilometers of porticoes, now UNESCO-listed, shade its streets, and the longest of them climbs for almost four kilometers to the Sanctuary of San Luca on its hill. The center is medieval and compact, around Piazza Maggiore, the two leaning towers, and the oldest university in Europe. But the thing people come for is lunch: tagliatelle al ragù (the dish the rest of the world calls bolognese, and gets wrong), tortellini in brodo, mortadella, and the market lanes of the Quadrilatero behind the main square.

Parma and Modena are the day trips, and they are best done with a driver and a guide who knows the producers. A Parmigiano-Reggiano dairy at dawn, when the wheels are being made; a prosciutto curing house in the hills at Langhirano; an acetaia in Modena where the balsamic has been ageing in barrels for decades. Modena also has Osteria Francescana, one of the most celebrated restaurants in the world, which books months out, and Maranello, with the Ferrari museum and factory tours, is twenty minutes away. Ravenna, toward the coast, has the finest Byzantine mosaics outside Istanbul and gets a fraction of the visitors it deserves.

Best Time to Go

Emilia-Romagna is an inland region with an inland climate. April, May, September and October are the months to come: comfortable for walking the porticoes, and the autumn brings the harvest, the new season's balsamic and, from October, the white truffles of the Apennine hills. June is warm; July and August are hot and humid on the plain, and in August Bologna half-closes for the holiday, with many of the best restaurants shut for two to three weeks. Winter is cold, often foggy, and the food is at its most comforting; it is a good season for a food-focused few days if you do not mind grey skies.

For September–October, book by May; the handful of good small hotels in central Bologna and the top restaurant tables in Modena fill first.

Month by month

  • January: Good.
  • February: Good.
  • March: Very good.
  • April: Excellent.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Very good.
  • July: Mixed.
  • August: Mixed.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Excellent.
  • November: Very good.
  • December: Good.

Getting There and How Long to Stay

Bologna is on the main fast-train line, about 35 minutes from Florence, an hour from Milan and about two hours from Rome, so it slots into almost any north–south route; its own airport has European connections. Three nights is right: one for Bologna, one day each for Parma and Modena. You do not need a car in Bologna; for the producers and the hill towns a driver for the day is the civilised way.

Where to Stay

Bologna's best addresses are small, central and inside the porticoed old town, and the region's country stays are converted farm estates and villas in the hills south of the Via Emilia. We place clients property by property here rather than publishing a standing list, and we would rather say so than pad this page with names we have not committed to. Ask us and we will match the stay to the trip.

Pairs with: Tuscany and Florence to the south, Venice to the north-east, Milan to the north-west, and the Italy guide.

Plan this trip with us. $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your trip.

Culture & Sights

  • Bologna's porticoes — nearly 40 kilometers of covered walkways, UNESCO-listed; the climb to San Luca is the long one.
  • Piazza Maggiore and the Two Towers — the medieval heart of the city, with the Basilica of San Petronio and the leaning Asinelli and Garisenda towers.
  • The Quadrilatero market lanes — mortadella, fresh tortellini and the food shops behind the main square.
  • Parmigiano-Reggiano dairies and prosciutto houses — visits at dawn around Parma, when the wheels are made.
  • Modena's acetaie — traditional balsamic vinegar ageing in attic barrels, plus the Romanesque Duomo and Piazza Grande.
  • Maranello — the Ferrari museum and factory tours, twenty minutes from Modena.
  • Ravenna — fifth- and sixth-century Byzantine mosaics in eight UNESCO-listed buildings.

Ready to plan your trip?

Every itinerary begins with a 20-minute planning call. From there, a $250 planning fee, credited in full toward your booked trip and non-refundable if you don’t book. I brief the property before you arrive — that's what the fee funds.

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