The Ha'penny Bridge spanning the River Liffey, with Georgian quayside buildings lining both banks in Dublin.

Dublin

The Book of Kells, the Georgian squares, and the right two nights before the west

Dublin

Dublin is where most Ireland trips land, and it deserves a proper stop rather than a night at the airport: Trinity College and the Book of Kells, the Georgian squares, good museums and a lively food and pub scene.

It is the bookend, not the trip. Two nights is right, then the west is where Ireland opens up.

Researched profile: this page is written from my planning research and partner knowledge rather than a stay of my own here, and when that changes, this line comes off.

What and Where It Is

Dublin sits on the east coast at the mouth of the River Liffey, about half an hour from the airport. The part a visitor needs is walkable: Trinity College and Grafton Street south of the river, St Stephen's Green and Merrion Square with their Georgian terraces, the national museums and gallery around Kildare Street and Merrion Square, and Temple Bar along the river.

What You Do Here

Trinity College comes first. The Book of Kells is shown by timed ticket, and I book the first entry of the morning, before the tour groups. From there it is a short walk through the Georgian squares to the National Gallery and the National Museum of Archaeology, both free. An afternoon walk along the Liffey, a traditional music session in the evening, and dinner somewhere good round out the day. On a second day, Dublin Castle, Christ Church Cathedral and the Guinness Storehouse are the usual choices; or head south along the coast to Howth or Dalkey for sea air.

How Long to Stay

Two nights is the right length: one full day in the city and an easy start before the drive west. If you are flying home from Dublin, a last night here takes the pressure off the final morning. For a castle stop on the way west, Ballyfin in County Laois breaks the drive in the midlands.

Best Time to Go

Dublin works all year. May to September has the longest days and the mildest weather, and spring and early autumn are quieter. Rain is part of Irish weather in any month, which matters less in a city of museums and pubs. Around St Patrick's Day in March, the city is busy and hotels fill early.

Month by month

  • January: Good.
  • February: Good.
  • March: Good.
  • April: Very good.
  • May: Excellent.
  • June: Excellent.
  • July: Very good.
  • August: Very good.
  • September: Excellent.
  • October: Very good.
  • November: Good.
  • December: Good.

Getting There

Dublin Airport has nonstop flights from the United States, and United States preclearance on the way home. The west coast is about three hours by road, which is why I usually arrange a private driver for the drive on narrow country roads.

Where to Stay

In Dublin I choose to suit each trip, usually close to St Stephen's Green so the city is on foot. For the drive west, Ballyfin, a grand country house in County Laois, is the midlands stop I would look at first.

Pairs with: the west of Ireland by road, and the Ireland guide for the whole country.

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Culture & Sights

  • Trinity College: The Book of Kells, by timed ticket; go at opening.
  • The Georgian squares: Merrion Square and St Stephen's Green, with their brick terraces and colored doors.
  • The National Gallery and National Museum: Free, and a short walk apart.
  • Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral: The medieval core of the city.
  • Traditional music: An evening session in a city pub.
  • Howth and Dalkey: Coastal villages a short trip from the center.

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